We’ve been on the move for the past couple of days, slowly making our way up the Mexican coastline. The first night was spent at anchor in Jicaral, which is one of the Bahia’s de Huatulco. Most of the little bays of Huatulco are a national park and protected from development. We were the only boat anchored in this bay that evening, and wow, what a beauty. There is no road access, so you’re anchored off tropical forest and a pristine light golden sand beach. Lovely spot.

The only drawback to it was that you do get a bit of swell coming in, especially if the Tehuantepec is blowing. But we set our stern anchor and with the boat pinned into the waves, we were very comfortable for the night.

The next day, we set out for the 37 miles to Puerto Angel. Chris and I had been here before about ten years ago, and we were curious to see how it has developed. The wind was out of the south, about 10 to 15 knots and we happily zipped along at 6 knots the whole way there. While the sail to Puerto Angel was great, I’d have to say the anchoring, not so much. Basically, you have to squeeze yourself in between the fishing pangas. Luckily the bay is very calm with little swell and for the two nights that we were there, everything was good.

The village was as charming as I had remembered it ten years ago with subsistence fishing still very much a daily part of people’s lives. We really loved talking and hanging out with the fishermen and could have stayed there for much longer. One guy we were chatting with fishes for shark, caught about 30 miles out to sea, in a 20 foot, open panga. Another guy goes out with his wife every night. We were chatting with him, as she hauled by hand, about 300 pounds of fish from the bottom of the boat up to the pier. She’s about 4’8, and built like a brick wall. You wouldn’t want to mess with her.

Padma, just another panga.

Padma, just another panga.

These people lead an almost idyllic lifestyle. Catching fish to make a few bucks, and keeping the rest for their own use. Every night before they set off, they fish for bait, which they share amoung themselves. Needless to say we had some excellent (and cheap!!) food here. We were kind of sad to leave this place, even though the anchoring was kind of bad.

We’re anchored in Puerto Escondido at the moment. This is home to the famous Mexi-pipe surfing destination. The anchorage is also tight, but we seemed to have lucked out and found a much-coveted break between the pangas in which to anchor with enough swing room. Again, we are the only sailing vessel here.

Unlike Puerto Angel, this town has completely changed. It used to be a tranquil fishing village with about 400 families living in it. Now it’s this small town with 36,000 residents. But I have to say, that most of the development is not too bad. The surf break has brought in a lot of money for people and the town feels somewhat prosperous.

Tomorrow we are off to Acapulco, a 187 nautical mile passage. We have a part to pick up there, but we don’t really plan on hanging around there too long. Before we left for our Tehuantepec passage, Chris was checking our transmission oil on the port engine and accidentally sheared off the dipstick when he was screwing it back in. Luckily, there’s a Volvo dealer in Acapulco, where a new dipstick awaits.

Me at Zipolite.